What Type Of Antifreeze To Winterize Boat

What Type Of Antifreeze To Winterize Boat – You’ve read many articles on how to winterize your boat’s engine and drivetrain. (If you haven’t, visit /hibernate.) But your craft isn’t just propulsion; batteries, water systems, hoods and the like need preparation before the cold starts or they will be damaged when they start up in the spring. Here’s a quick overview of what to serve and how to do it.

You can’t leave any water in the system untreated or it can freeze, expand and burst, or whatever is trying to hold it (tank, fittings, pipes, etc.) will burst. Empty the tank. A type of portable pump connected to the tank drain allows the tank and boiler to be pumped out of the boat if the bilge drain fails. Disconnect the input and output lines. Pour in non-toxic antifreeze (“RV Red”, available at RV and marine supply and hardware stores; usually a propylene glycol solution) until the red antifreeze is gone and no raw water remains. You just want the antifreeze to flow – no need to fill the water heater or water tank with antifreeze solution. In fact, it makes spring cleaning tedious.

What Type Of Antifreeze To Winterize Boat

This is where another shop-made hose reel—plus a turkey baster—will come in handy. Turn off the water inlet of the water pump (between the water tank and the pump). Connect the hose you made long enough to reach your “stock” antifreeze (jug, bucket, etc.) to the appropriate fitting. Turn on the pump and then open the taps one by one, closing each one when it comes out “red”. Turkey baster? After disconnecting the supply hose, use it to prime the pump: Hold the end of the store-bought hose high, pour some antifreeze into the end, and then insert the end into the antifreeze.

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Turn on the sink or shower pump and open the faucet. Close the valve when red antifreeze comes out of the faucet. Sinks and showers should also be cleaned, rinsed and dried; when you’re done, pour red antifreeze down the drain.

The pink or red antifreeze makes it easy to see if the clear pipes and hoses are full of antifreeze. It also makes it easier to see when antifreeze, not water, has flowed out of the unit’s drain and ensures a complete flush.

The sump and storage tank contents must be pumped to an approved pumping station. After pumping, pour a toilet cleaner (see your owner’s manual for approved cleaners) into the bowl and let it sit for a few minutes. Then rinse it and lastly rinse and pour RV Red antifreeze into the bowl, macerator pump, storage tank, Y-valve and drain hose.

You don’t want to fill your water heater with antifreeze in the winter. Just drain it and then flush with antifreeze until you see pink antifreeze coming out of the drain or discharge pipe of the portable pump. But antifreeze must be flushed through other components of the water system; To avoid needing enough antifreeze to fill the water heater, experienced boaters make a bypass hose consisting of a long hose and standard NPT fittings. Connect one end of the bypass to the cold water supply of the heater and the other end to the hot return line on the domestic water side of the heater.

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If there is a saltwater wash or an anchor wash, this should also be winter. Turn off the seacock inlet (if in water, close the seacock). Then squeeze the free end of the suction into a bowl or container of antifreeze. Turn on the pump, open the valve and leave it open until the red antifreeze flows out.

The hold should be thoroughly cleaned and freed of all oil and dirt. Use a biodegradable cleaner (Simple Green works well) and dry the area thoroughly before layout. Just before storage, add a little RV Red antifreeze to the bottom to prevent water or condensation from freezing.

Indoor killers are mold and mildew. To prevent mold growth, remove all personal items (life jackets, anchors, fire extinguishers, etc.) from storage and air dry; then store them in your garage. Check them and replace them if necessary during the winter months. Alternatively, if you don’t have room at home, hang them on a boat so they don’t sit and collect moisture. Vacuum and air dry all interior compartments, drawers and cabinets, especially carpeted ones. Do not fit the covers and pads tightly; leave them loose to encourage air circulation. Place moisture absorbents such as Damp-Rid or similar commercial products in these areas and invest in a small circulation fan if necessary, especially if the boat will be shrinking.

There is a story about a boater who winterized his freshwater systems with gin: he never had frozen water or had trouble finding volunteers to help prepare the boat in the spring.

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Most boaters use a non-toxic antifreeze like West Marine Pure Oceans below instead of alcohol to “salt” their systems and protect them from freeze damage. But what’s the difference between the different types and colors displayed in these great stacks at the marine supply and boat dealer showroom this fall? Here are two main features to consider when purchasing non-toxic antifreeze.

Level of Protection: Look for antifreeze designed for the coldest weather your boat will experience. Some antifreezes are pre-mixed and do not need to be diluted; others can be diluted with water to customize the level of protection for your situation.

Corrosion inhibitors: If you need to protect raw water systems and engine heat exchangers as well as fresh water systems, make sure the antifreeze contains corrosion inhibitors. Inhibitors are not necessary if you are protecting the plastic hoses and pipes of fresh water systems (including manifolds). –

Fill the tanks almost completely to avoid condensation. The fuel must be treated with a fuel conditioner (Star Tron, Sta-Bil, etc.). I prefer too little to too much; I usually increase the dosage indicated in the instructions by at least a third. The engine must be run long enough (usually at least 10 minutes, maybe more) to allow the processed fuel to enter the intake port and the engine before the final shutdown. In fact, if possible, add a winter dose of fuel stabilizer to the tank on or just before the last trip of the year to make sure it’s throughout the system.

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Replace the water separator filter and all internal filters. With so much alcohol gasoline today, if your equipment didn’t have the fuel lines and associated connectors, primer pump, breathers and filler hoses replaced before 2011, it’s time to do so – they can and will fail. inside out due to exposure to alcohol in the fuel. The rubber balls and strings that result from this decomposition process end up in the engine. And then you need a mechanic.

All flooded electrolytic (non-AGM) battery cells must be filled with distilled water and then fully charged to prevent the water from freezing. Terminals should be cleaned: baking soda or coke works well with acid neutralizing baking soda. Coat the terminals and exposed ends of the wires/cables with dielectric grease. If possible, remove the batteries from the boat and store them in a cool, dry place.

Refrigerators and freezers must be turned off, defrosted and cleaned; the doors must remain open. Stoves, ovens and microwaves should also be cleaned.

Boats winterized on blocks or trailers may not be level, so their weight may not drain all the water. If you have a compressor, blow the lines with air before adding antifreeze. Buy more antifreeze than you theoretically need. Fill the system until you see red coming out of the drain and any low spots are left with antifreeze, not water.

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If your boat has been stored on a trailer, fall is a good time to check and repair any problems with the lights, wheels, bearings, beds, jack, towbar, and winch. Lubricate all elements and protect them from the harsh winter weather. Touch paint any areas that will be rusty. If your trailer is galvanized, repair rusted areas by spraying with a cold-dip galvanized finish. Removing wheels and tires and locking the frame evenly extends the life of springs, axles and wheels and helps prevent theft.

The boat should be thoroughly cleaned and waxed. If the bottom is contaminated with marine vegetation, it should be thoroughly cleaned before storage. If it gets dirty in the winter, it will be very difficult to clean it in the spring. The boat must be stored on its own trailer or a set of fixed boat storage carts.

Of course, before you put them away for the winter, they need to be spread out, cleaned and dried. If the boat will be stored inside, use a mooring cover or trailer to protect it from dust, dirt and animals. For outdoor storage, if your boat is shrink-wrapped, do not cover it first. Keep the cover (and tops, Bimini and any other sail).

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